Chefs belong to an odd fraternity. It is one of the most stressful jobs in the world, ranking in the number four position just behind air traffic controllers. Chefs can be very open and secretive at the same time. Most of us tend to be show-offs, though, and like nothing better than sharing our knowledge (but not necessarily our recipes) with others. I’ve dined in some of the best restaurants in the world and the callous on my right index finger from wielding a chef’s knife for 25 years is all the ticket I need for a tour of their kitchens.

I’ve been out of the business for over a decade now. Except for a few special occasions, my cooking has been confined to preparing meals for family and friends. As satisfying as that can be, I still miss cooking for the public. I miss the camaraderie of the professional kitchen and the knowledge gained from working with other cooks, for fine dining is a team effort. No successful chef can do it without the help of a good staff.

Living as we now do prevents me from participating in intriguing  food trends like molecular gastronomy and pop-up restaurants. There are things I can learn from watching cooking shows like Iron Chef America and Top Chef, but the only way I can test what I learn is by putting it out there. Friends and family tend to be very forgiving and not always forthcoming.  That’s why I’ve decided to start my own trend -the Guerilla Chef - I strike without warning.

A couple of days ago, I got a hankering for tapas, the little dishes of Spain. I fixed a half dozen traditional Spanish tapas and took them just down the road to West Wind Farm so Anne and I could have a glass of wine and share some food with our friend David Manley. It wasn’t long before Alisa Potts came in for a short meeting with David, after which she joined Anne and me for a glass of wine and tapas. On the way home later, I felt that inner satisfaction I get when someone eats my food for the first time, and I know they enjoyed it.

For years now, long before the small plate wave hit American restaurants, I’ve been playing with the idea of American tapas. Recently, I’ve been experimenting with traditional Appalachian ingredients, giving them a modern twist in a small plate format. It’s time to test those ideas, maybe at the Farmers Market, the Winery, or who knows where?  So look for the Guerilla Chef in the coming months to strike at a place near you.

We’re in the sweet spot of the growing season right now. For the next two months, the land will be giving up its bounty. Each week will bring us something new. This past week at the Farmers Market, zucchini, yellow squash, and carrots made an appearance. One vendor had fingerling potatoes. Cucumbers, new potatoes, and summer squash will soon be arriving. The spotlight this week, though, is on blackberries.

The blackberries this year are spectacular. The weather this spring was perfect for this gift from Mother Nature. The bushes are loaded with plump, juicy fruit. Some of the clusters are so ripe and sweet that all it takes is a little shake and they fall into the basket. No picking necessary. Blackberry cobbler and syrup, maybe even another attempt at making jam, is in our near future.

Wild blackberries abound in Wythe County. Find a spot and pick yours before the birds do.

Anne and I have celebrated some memorable 4ths. We grooved to the Good Vibrations of the Beach Boys along with 500,000 other folks on the National Mall. We watched fireworks at a party on top of the Interior Department Building. The brilliant bursts of color exploded directly above us, high in the night air. There have been concerts and backyard parties; neighborhood get-togethers and seafood at the beach. Of all the ways and all the places, few have been as much fun and relaxing as this one.

In case you haven’t noticed, there appear to be more tourists in the area this year than in the recent past. Anne and I have been playing tourist in our own backyard. Friday, we drove to Heartwood, the new Appalachian cultural center located off I-81, exit 14 near Abingdon. This is a special place, and I look forward to returning to it again and again. The Grand Opening takes place July 16 – July 23 with different activities and entertainment each day. I’ll have a more in-depth post after the 28th of this month. I’m trailing the chefs in the kitchen that day and may do a little cooking.

After Heartwood, we headed toward Damascus on Rt. 58. Damascus, Virginia, bills itself as Trail Town, USA, and well it should. Seven different trails crisscross this charming little village. We stopped for a nice lunch at the Whistle Pig Cafe. We both had the the chilled gazpacho and the fried green tomato sandwich on wheat roll with fresh sprouts. They were both unique and delicious. We split a slice of excellent key lime cheesecake for dessert. Would that the service was as good as the food.

After lunch, we took a leisurely drive on Rt. 58 toward White Top, paralleling the Virginia Creeper Trail for part of the way. The scenery this time of year is beautiful. The mountain laurel is in full bloom and the rock formations can be breath-taking. A boulder-filled stream rushes beside the road in spots. State signs alert you to the areas that have been stocked with trout. The laughter of families riding the trail on bicycles filtered through the trees at some of the places we stopped. The excited children sound like birds chirping.

With the afternoon starting to draw to a close, we drove over White Top and picked up I-81 in Chillhowie. We made it back to our place in the world in time to have a glass of wine with the neighbors.

Saturday was spent at the Farmers Market and chilling at home. Sunday I did some cooking. Anne had bought some gorgeous organic cauliflower at the Market, and I roasted part of it and did a puree with the rest. Tonight, weather allowing, we’re going to town to dance to the music of the Embers and watch the fireworks.

Happy 4th of July, y’all!

#########

pureed cauliflower recipe

Wash cauliflower in cold running water and separate into florets. Drop the florets into rapidly boiling, salted water. Cook for seven minutes and drain. Spread the florets out on a baking sheet and dry in a pre-heated 325 degree oven for five minutes. Transfer the florets to a blender and puree with heavy cream, butter, and grated gruyere cheese ( Two parts cream, one part butter, one parted grated cheese melted together in a small sauce pan.) Blend to the consistency of mashed potatoes. Add sea salt and cayenne pepper to taste. May be made ahead of time and reheated in the microwave. Will keep tightly covered in the refrigerator for a week.

The Wytheville Farmers Market

When it comes to the Farmers Market, I know I have a tendency to go a little overboard, but our market has a growing and well deserved reputation for excellence. Aside from the products offered, it is also becoming a weekly social event. I mean really….anyone who is anyone goes to the market to shop and just hang out. Come by for a cup of Dave Richert’s coffee and one of Roxanne Winesett’s cheese Danishes and get your morning started right.

Crystal Springs Recreation Area

This weekend is the perfect opportunity to take the kids or that special someone for some quality time in the great outdoors. Call ahead to Fran’s Deli (276-578-2005) for a picnic lunch, and spend the afternoon exploring Crystal Springs Recreation Area. The newest addition to area parks, located on Pump Hollow Road just south of town, has something for everyone.

West Wind Farm Vineyard and Winery

David Manley invites you to join his family and friends Saturday evening to help celebrate the 5th Anniversary of the opening of West Wind’s tasting room. Dance to the soul sounds of Winston Salem’s Envision from 6-9 pm in one of the county’s most relaxing environments. Have a little wine and some mouth-watering North Carolina barbecue. It’s a southern beach party mountain style. Click the blogroll link for contact information.

Chris Francis (right) and Willard Conklin turnin' and burnin'

With a staff of two, a cook/host/waiter from Calabash, NC, hired the day before, and a volunteer waitress/cashier from Anders Evolution Salon, owned by Chris’ sister Julie and where wife Dana has strutted her styling self for the last 13 years, Chris and crew pulled off a relatively smooth day. Sure there were a few minor opening-day bumps, and at times a wait, but that said, things went pretty well.

Anne and I had a really good lunch yesterday, and I stopped by today with my friend John for a sandwich and take-out for dinner tonight. Service was much smoother even though the wait staff was still volunteer, this time a couple of ladies from Crossroads, Chris and Dana’s church. Wait times were cut in half. Considering the quality of the food and the variety of offerings in both the fresh seafood and the deli cases, I don’t think anyone is going to mind a brief wait. The tastefully decorated space is tiny, and seating is limited to 12. The problem is that the room is so vibrant and the food is so good, no one wants to leave.

For all the area foodies who appreciate regional southern cuisine, particularly that of Arcadia, the area of southeast Louisiana Cajuns call home, this is the place we’ve been waiting for. Many people have a misconception about Cajun food. It is not the fiery Creole haute cuisine of New Orleans with its complicated preparations and complex sauces. This is an example of country home cooking at its best. Mildly spiced, daily specials feature slow cooked stews of chicken (Wed.) and shrimp (Fri.) Captain Coy’s is closed Sunday and Monday, so red beans and rice is reserved for Tuesday, Jambalaya on Thursday and seafood gumbo finishes the week on Saturday.

Chicken Stew and a slice of French bread straight from Gambeno's Bakery in New Orleans

oysters and fresh, safe Gulf shrimp, to the right, sushi grade tuna, et al

Personally, I don’t plan to do a lot of cooking for the next few days. As they say in Louisiana, laissez le bons temps rouler!

Located in the old Sunny Daze building
610 West Lee Highway
For take-out and directions, call 276-227-0311.

Anne catching up with our friend Suzanne Capone

Not only were there a dozen or so new vendors, but last year’s vendors are back with more and better products. Check out the gi-normous eggs we got from Matty Holder of Lazy Bee Farm.

Don had to cut the lid from the carton. It's just resting on top.

One of the most exciting things for me personally was the new products offered by a couple of the new vendors. Maybe ramps and broccoli rabe don’t blow your hair back, but this ol’ chef came home and did his happy dance.

Crystal Gillan of Mule Hell Trading Co. who offers wild foods (ramps) and handmade olive oil soaps among other things

Sara Fennell, the mother of our arugula, operates Groundswell Farm and is also the broccoli rabe source.

I have a lot more pictures and more to write about, but I’m out of time today. I’ll post more this week. Let me close this out with a picture of hands down, the Market’s most satisfied customer that day.

Chris Francis expects to open Captain Coy’s Cajun Deli the first week of May. With inside seating for 15, Chris plans to offer hand cut steaks, fresh seafood, deli meats and cheeses as well as Po’ Boy sandwiches, daily luncheon specials and meals to go.

Chris Francis of Captain Coy's Cajun Deli

Next door to Captain Coy’s, Leisa Denti and her daughter Kelsigh are readying Cinnamon Sage, a full service bakery. Among their offerings will be artisan breads, focaccia, muffins, and gourmet cupcakes.

Leisa Denti and her daughter Kelsigh

For some of their breads, the Dentis will grind their own wheat for flour. Leisa plans seating for 12 for those wishing to enjoy their baked treats with a good cup of coffee. A late June opening is planned. For additional information, call Leisa at 223-0223.

I don’t know if George the Groundhog saw his shadow this year because we haven’t seen him in forever. Groundhogs have an average life span of 6 years, and George was pushing 7. I did check with the Artist George Krause. He says his shadow scares the living begeezus out him, so there you go.

Congratulations to Skeeter’s for making Rachel Ray’s list of the 64 best chilidogs in America! Heck, I could have told her that. In fact, I tried to tell the world last year. Check out my post entitled “I’ll Have One With Slaw.” (Use the Search Box on the lower right.) The eventual winner for the best dog in the South went to JS Pulliam Barbecue on Old Walkertown Road in Winston-Salem, and in the judges’ opinion, the best hotdog in America is sold at Gene & Jude’s in River Grove, Illinois. Course, we all know what they say about opinions. Besides, the pleasure of being served by Miz Elizabeth should have given Skeeter’s extra points in my book.

I stopped by to see Karen and Daryl Dennis last week at Fran’s Deli’s new location next to the Dollar General Store in Wythe Plaza on East Main. We almost lost Daryl last fall, and I can not tell you how happy I am to see the two of them back. Hands down they have the best deli sandwiches in SW Virginia. Daryl reports that he’s lost 20lbs so far but still has a long way to go. He’s also trying to quit smoking, so give him some well wishes and encouragement along with your order.

Finally, the Wythe County Board of Supervisors meets tomorrow morning at 9:00am. I plan to attend to see if I can get a kiss, because I always like to be kissed when I’m getting screwed. I urge all of you to attend and make your thoughts on the new hire and pay raises known.

For several years now, I’ve been researching the food of Appalachia. Traditional mountain cooking has never really been codified nor is it available in restaurants because it is a cuisine that relies heavily on wild game: deer, rabbit, wild turkey and other game birds as well fresh fish like trout, perch, and catfish from the rivers, streams, and lakes. Health Departments tend to take a dim view of ingredients that have not been raised according to Federal guidelines and officially inspected. I doubt hot biscuits and squirrel gravy has ever appeared on a commercial menu. Fresh vegetables come from family gardens and are canned for the winter months. Foraging for nuts, berries, wild greens, and mushrooms also help fill the larder.

If I had to point to one meal that says mountain cooking more than any other, it would be pinto beans and cornbread. Nothing hits the spot on a frigid winter day like dried pintos slow cooked with onions and smoked pork to a delicious creaminess accompanied by a plate of hot cornbread and butter. Traditionalists would wash it down with fresh buttermilk or sweet tea. Real old-timers might even have sassafras tea or coffee made from wild chicory.

Unfortunately, this style of cooking is rapidly disappearing and will probably be gone in twenty years or so. With each passing generation, more people lack the knowledge and skills necessary to process and cook wild food and have turned to fast or processed food for their diet. Pinto beans come out of a can, and cornbread from a mix. You have to know someone who knows someone to obtain venison sausage. Unlike other areas in this country where regional foods are making a comeback and are being preserved, here in Appalachia, that’s not happening.

Sadly, once this style of cooking is gone, it will be gone for good.

The origins of the dish are a bit murky, but most food historians agree that the first recipe for a pudding featuring bananas was printed in Mrs. Rorer’s New Cook Book (1902) by Sarah Tyson Rorer, considered America’s first dietitian and founder of the Philadelphia Cooking School, in a section she called “Hawaiian Recipes.”

The following year, 1903, Mary Harris Frazier published The Kentucky Receipt Book, which contained the following recipe:

Banana Pudding

Take a half dozen bananas, peel and cut in pieces an inch thick, put in baking dish and pour over custard made in the following manner:                   Custard-one pint of milk, 3 eggs, beat the yolks light, add milk, also two tablespoons of granulated sugar. Have the milk boiling, add the eggs and let it cook until it thickens; when cool pour over the bananas. Make a meringue with the whites and granulated sugar, put on top of custard, set in oven a few minutes to brown.                                                                                                                      Serve at once.

The Woman Suffrage Cook Book, (edited by Mrs. Hattie A. Burr, c. 1886) contained the following recipe by a Mrs. B. M. Frazier for vanilla wafers:

Ingredients

1 cup (200 g) sugar

2/3 cup (170 g) butter

4 tbsp (60 ml) milk

1 egg

1 tsp (3 g) cream of tartar

1/2 tsp (2.3 g) baking soda

1 pinch salt

1 tbsp (15 ml) pure vanilla extract (or better, vanilla paste)

5 cups (600 g) flour (or as needed)

The original instructions do not specify the exact amount of flour, they just say to add enough flour to roll the dough very thin. Begin by adding 4 cups (454 g) of flour and then add as much as needed to make a supple dough that is easy to roll. Adding too little flour will make the dough too soft and sticky, adding too much will make it dry and brittle–in both cases it will be very difficult to roll. If you realize you added too much flour, add some more milk (1 tbsp at a time), until the dough is again supple and easy to handle.

Preheat the oven at 350°F (180°C).

Cream the butter, then add the sugar and mix well. Add the egg and beat until well incorporated, then add the milk and vanilla and mix well. Sift 4 cups of flour with the

salt, the cream of tartar and the baking soda, and add these to the butter mixture. Mix well and then add enough extra flour until the dough holds together and is firm and supple, easy to roll.

On a very lightly floured surface roll the dough very thin (1/8 inch–3 mm), and cut with a cookie cutter. Using a thin metal spatula transfer the cookies to a baking sheet lined with aluminum foil and bake for about 10-12 minutes, until lightly golden. Transfer the cookies on a rack to cool–they will be soft just out of the oven but will become crisp as they cool. Keep in an airtight container.

No one knows for sure who the first culinary genius was to marry banana pudding with vanilla wafers, but by 1901, the National Biscuit Company was marketing their brand of the tasty little cookie, and soon thereafter put a recipe on the side of their box of Vanilla Wafers (changed to their trademarked Nabisco Nilla Wafers in 1968) that has become the standard for banana pudding by which all others are judged.

Original Nilla Banana Pudding

Ready in: 60 mins.

Layers of Nilla wafers, creamy pudding and fresh banana slices
are the stars of this American classic.

3/4 cup sugar, divided
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
Dash salt
3 eggs, separated
2 cups milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
45 NILLA Wafers, divided
5 ripe bananas, sliced (about 3 1/2 cups), divided
Additional NILLA Wafers and banana slices, for garnish

1. Mix 1/2 cup sugar, flour and salt in top of double boiler.
Blend in 3 egg yolks and milk. Cook, uncovered, over boiling water,
stirring constantly for 10 to 12 minutes or until thickened. Remove
from heat; stir in vanilla.

2. Reserve 10 wafers for garnish. Spread small amount of custard
on bottom of 1 1/2-quart casserole; cover with a layer of wafers
and a layer of sliced bananas. Pour about 1/3 of custard over
bananas. Continue to layer wafers, bananas and custard to make
a total of 3 layers of each, ending with custard.

3. Beat egg whites until soft peaks form; gradually add remaining
1/4 cup sugar and beat until stiff but not dry. Spoon on top of
pudding, spreading evenly to cover entire surface and sealing well to edges.

4. Bake at 350°F in top half of oven for 15 to 20 minutes or
until browned. Cool slightly or refrigerate. Garnish with
additional wafers and banana slices just before serving.

Makes 8 servings

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION per serving
287 calories, 6 g protein, 50 g carbohydrate, 7 g total fat,
2 g saturated fat, 117 mg cholesterol, 134 mg sodium,
1 g dietary fiber.

Preparation Time: 30 mins.
Cook Time: 15 mins.
Cooling Time: 15 mins.
Total Time: 60 mins.

So what could make this classic of the South even better than it already is?

Peanut Butter.

Peanut Butter and Banana sandwiches have been a childhood staple since who knows when. We know for sure that Gladys Presley used to make them for her baby boy, Elvis. As an adult, the King was known to eat forty at a time, fried in butter with the crusts removed. They could be one of the reasons his colon was the size of Sara Palin’s  ego when he expired, sitting on a toilet, straining for a movement.

A couple of weeks ago, I was fooling around in the kitchen and decided to make a banana pudding following the classic recipe, but making the first layer of wafers out of peanut butter and vanilla wafer sandwiches. Folks, I’m here to tell you, when I took that first bite, I could hear Elvis say, “Mama, why didn’t you think of this?”

Now, I’ve done a Google search, and can find no recipe that matches the one I came up with. There are those that combine peanut butter and bananas in various pudding recipes, but none that do it totally my way. So I guess this gives me naming rights. What with Thanksgiving and Christmas coming, and more importantly, January 8th, Elvis’ Birthday, I dub this creation the Presley Puddin’ (TM). The Queen of Southern Puddings is now fit for its King.

Bon Appetit!

]]> http://www.wythenotes.com/wp/2010/11/19/a-puddin-fit-for-a-king/feed/ 3